Alpine Savvy Anchor (Alex says it's his favorite, so that's what I'm calling it, For rock climbing, consider 5 to 7 meters of 7 mm cord, b 1) Bolted top rope anchor, Here's one application, the “fisheye”, A normal multi pitch anchor doesn’t require locking carabiners on the bolts, Check out a recent article and video by Over the Edge Rescue on this, Mar 3, 2023 · DIY - Anchor practice board , See some examples, and learn why a major American climbing organization favors the open anchor, This example is for two existing horizontal hangers, A simple training board like this lets you rig just about any anchor you can imagine: top rope, rappel transitions, multipitch, and more, You could use a bowline on a bight, or a “bunny ears” figure 8, as discussed in this post, Then (if needed) you may build a second anchor and try to equalize #1 and #2, As in the diagram below, when you're doing a fixed point lead belay off the anchor, Tie a bight knot (a butterfly works great Sep 1, 2021 · When you bail from a route, be at a one pitch sport climb or an alpine multipitch, the objectives are similar: Get to the ground in one piece, with each anchor point strong enough but not overbuilt, and leave a minimum of gear behind, When might this be helpful? Adjust your connection length to the anchor, say on a larger ledge when you want to move away from the master Dec 12, 2024 · Rebelays have long been used by cavers, who know how to take good care of fixed ropes, Oct 14, 2019 · Here are some ways to use a locker draw, Sep 1, 2024 · Sometimes at a busy anchor, you may have a rope on top of another one, and those two ropes need to trade places, Check it out for complete instructions and step-by-step photos, Cost is about $5 in materials, and five minutes of your time with basic hand tools, Feb 7, 2023 · Stay sharp and practice your anchor skills! If you have a simple training board like this, you can rig up just about anything you can imagine: top rope anchors, rappel transitions, multipitch, and more, Here's an elegant way to do this: the "revolving door" technique, Rebelays can also be useful in some climbing applications, such as big walls, instructional settings, or rescues, Pulling on this carabiner creates slack, which you can then feed in either direction you need, 2,132 likes · 8 talking about this, 400+ climbing tips and navigation resources for the savvy alpinist, Mar 19, 2019 · There are lots of ways to build an anchor with just the climbing rope, Here’s a slick method to make an anchor with the climbing rope that simply uses clove hitches Sep 30, 2025 · Can we improve single pitch “clip and lower” anchors? This anchor ticks all the boxes for low cost, simplicity, security, longevity, and more, ) Load distributing, to a certain extent Pretty much zero force is applied to the knot, which Sep 22, 2024 · At some point in your alpine climbing, you’ll be forced to use a rappel anchor that’s as sketchy as Donald Trump’s tax returns, Some of the results were pretty surprising! Oct 14, 2019 · Here are some ways to use a locker draw, But, shared here as more of an FYI, public service announcement, the American Alpine Club (AAC) has officially come out with the stance that they support lowering, What if you don't have that gear with you? Here's an alternative: Simply use a pair of 120 cm slings, Let's look at a few ways to set this up, Is it a strand or two of sun crusted, rock rodent chewed ancient webbing? Get out your cordelette or a sling (s) and leave those behind, What are some benefits to this anchor? Super strong, because the load is distributed among many strands of webbing instead of one or two, Let's look at some techniques and video from pro European guides showing how it's done, Bolts, of course, are multidirectional, With modern tools like a progress capture pulley and micro ascenders, crevasse rescue is usually faster and simpler, For a multi pitch, after you build a proper anchor, you can use Jun 9, 2024 · Traditional anchor building teaches always try to “equalize” the load, See the test results here, Summary of reasons: Changing from one safety system to A T-slot anchor using an ice axe is suitable on firn, whereas on ice you use ice screws or a V-thread anchor, The best anchor hardware for doing a rope block is small chain links, or small to medium sized quick links, What are some downsides to building an anchor with the rope? , Some older methods are cumbersome, slow to set up, and add unnecessary clutter, Apr 14, 2025 · Quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles, Nov 5, 2025 · Here are two examples of starting your anchor with a quickdraw: Multi pitch climb Single pitch top rope For both examples, let's assume there's not much place to stand, so you secure yourself initially with a clove, The primary reasons to use this: Prevent the belayer from being violently yanked into the air, slammed against the rock, and potentially being injured or even losing control of the belay Reduces the force on lead protection due to rope slippage Allows a greater chance of actually holding a factor 2 fall,
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